An Introduction to Geothermal Heating

By Steven P. Ross

One of the fastest growing sectors of renewable energy resource development is the wide and varied field of Geothermal Heating. No matter the type you choose to match your needs and location, a geothermal installation can be made completely sustainable and is very scalable. It is likely that the future of geothermal energy will find some aspect of it found in every home as part of a varied renewable energy package.

Boiled down to its most basic elements, geothermal energy is generated when the heat of the Earth itself (or submerged magma near reservoir cavities) is used to directly heat water. The water acts as a conduction medium, bringing the heat to another location. One may also use superheated steam to generate electricity by spinning an industrial sized turbine. The water may also be used directly to heat, as is the case in greenhouses with hot water pipes under plant benches.

Geothermically heated waters have been used for at least the last 2,000 years, maybe longer, as the Roman baths found throughout the former Empire can attest to. There was a revival of heated bathing culture in the mid- to late 19th century that saw the creation of countless "healing water" spas. By the 1920s those areas were popular enough that they needed electricity for street lamps and electricity around these often rural destinations, usually flanked by mountains.

The Geysers geothermal power station in northern California was once the site of one of the world's first geothermic power plants, though they were very inefficient. Later, when the spa fell out of fashion, the site became home to no less than 21 industrial turbine generators that make it the largest such facility in the world. Indeed, though Iceland produces more geothermal energy than the US per capita, the output of the US dwarfs the tiny, island nation.

Improvements in generator design have caused there to be a few typical designs for geothermal generators. The oldest type is called "dry stem" and simply uses the steam as it comes out in a single chamber system that turns the turbine. The more modern and efficient method of using what is called a "binary cycle" and two chambers has been very successful and many generators are switching over when they receive overhaul work. Here, either the superheated water itself or another fluid is allowed to undergo pressure changes that instantly turn it into a vapour, thus turning the turbines with each "stroke," like a combustion engine.

One of the most exciting developments in the production of geothermal power is the relatively new practice of injecting reclaimed water into spent vents or heated cavities commonly referred to as, "hot, dry rocks." The water is pumped in while it is still capped, to allow the pressure to grow. It is usually pumped in cold in the hopes that the difference between the water and the rock temperatures will cause further fissures to open up and increase the volume of the cavern to be filled. When new holes are driven in to the rejuvenated geothermal well, the site will usually operate indefinitely as long as there's available water.

Roughly one quarter of North America is capable of supporting any actively heated sites, such as those where hot springs are naturally found. The central and eastern part of the country are still able to use geothermal energy to heat and cool homes and businesses, but their options are limited to passive technologies such as the heat pump. Here, water or glycol is injected into pipes and circulated underground to exchange the heat or absence of it with the constant temperature of the ground outside. Such systems are always closed when they simply circulate underground, but may also be open systems that have intake and outtake pipes submerged deep into a nearby lake or pond.

These passive systems have the advantage of being suitable for homeowners everywhere, having hardly any moving parts that can break and quietly bringing your home to equilibrium with the ambient temperature of the Earth in your area. For those living in climates that get very cold in the winter, this can be the difference between heating your house from 50 to 70F (10-20C) rather than from a typical sub-zero base.

For those looking to investigate how to fit geothermal heat into their sustainable power system, there several organizations that provide detailed information on the topic as part of their advocacy mission.

The next century will surely see a wide expansion of the various geothermal technologies, if for no other reason than it's predicted affordability within even just a few years. As the benefits of geothermal heating and energy production become more widely known, it is certain that heat pumps will become as ubiquitous as wind turbines and solar panels.

If you live in the South Bay Area of California and are interested in geothermal heating for your house or business building then please schedule an appointment with one of our experienced technicians at Sandium.Com

Steven Ross owns and operates [http://www.geothermalheatingreport.com] where you can read many additional articles about Geothermal Heating [http://www.geothermalheatingreport.com]

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steven_P._Ross

Residential Geothermal Heating and Cooling

By David Munisteri

When you are building a home, you might wonder whether residential and geothermal heating and cooling go well together. After all, geothermal requires that a well be drilled and it can have a higher initial cost than installing a conventional system. Once you begin to consider the advantages of geothermal, however, it will quickly become clear that residential and geothermal heating and cooling do make sense and that geothermal may just be the best way to heat and cool your home.

Benefits of Geothermal

One of the biggest and most obvious benefits of geothermal is that you can achieve significant savings on your electricity bills and on your bills for heating and cooling your home. Geothermal is far more energy efficient- some estimates suggest as much as 400 times more energy efficient- than other heating and cooling systems. In most cases, a geothermal unit will not only provide air conditioning and help with heating your home, but it will also preheat your water or help to warm it up before it gets to the hot water tank. This can give you yet another source of money and energy savings, since hot water heaters are a major contributor to raising the monthly utility bill.

While the reduced energy costs are somewhat offset by the increased cost of installing a geothermal unit, this is true only for a limited period of time. After a few short years, you will have made up the difference in cost for the geothermal unit. With tax credits available on a federal level through 2016, and with many local utility companies offering rebates, the payback period may be even shorter. As long as you remain in the residence, any additional savings on your energy costs after this point will be pure profit. If you sell your home, on the other hand, the geothermal system can raise your asking price and can be a major benefit that encourages buyers to buy.

Aside from the energy benefits, geothermal also has other advantages as well. For one thing, the system tends to run much more quietly than conventional heating and cooling systems do. You won't have to worry about a noisy air conditioner kicking on or a furnace going on and off at regular intervals, but you will instead enjoy nice, quiet power from the geothermal system. This can make your home a more peaceful place to be.

Some who have experience with residential and geothermal heating and cooling also report that their homes feel less humid or warmer, on the whole, once geothermal is installed as compared to with their prior heating and cooling system. This, too, can be a significant advantage, especially if you feel as if your home has cold places or if it can't quite get warm.

With all of these different benefits of geothermal, it is clear that residential and geothermal heating and cooling can work together and that installing a geothermal unit in a residential home can be a great investment in your future comfort and your long-term utility savings.

Learn more about residential geothermal heating and cooling and geothermal heat pumps at Sandium.Com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Munisteri

Home Heating System: Boost the Heat in a Cold Bedroom

By Don Ames

Homeowners know when they're cold and they know where their cold. They may not know how to light a pilot light, or air seal an attic floor, or balance a home heating system, but they know when they are cold. Bedrooms are often the coldest room in the house and most often people just live with it. Stick the kid in the cool bedroom, throw a couple extra blankets on the bed and tell them to finish their homework.

Dealing with a cool bedroom is frustrating. If you turn up the heat to warm the room, the rest of the house gets too warm. Shut all the heating registers except the bedroom and it puts too much back pressure on the furnace. Too often I see a household try to adjust the temperature of one room by closing heating registers in other rooms and soon they have half the registers in the house closed and the home heating system working overtime to satisfy the heating request at the thermostat.

Usually, the home heating system is designed by a professional Heating Contractor that went to HVAC school for several hours a week for a number of years. A Heating contractor must pass an apprentice program before he or she can even take the test for their journeyman license.

HVAC Education

During the educational phase of the heating and cooling training, they are taught how to do a heating load calculation on a home. They take the heating load and develop a designed heating system that includes furnace size, fan capacity, duct size, air flows, and register size. In other words, heating systems are designed to heat all rooms evenly and to work as a system with all registers open.

If you have one bedroom that is cooler than the rest of the house, one of two things has happened:

• The heating system was designed by a contractor that barely passed the test, or
• the heating system is broken.

Recently, I had a homeowner complain that they got very little air flow out of the heating register in their dining room. The dining room was cooler than other parts of the house. With a flow hood, I registered a 75% decrease of air flow at the register as compared to the register in the living room. I removed the register grill, took a flashlight and mirror and looked down the inside of the heating duct.

With the mirror to see around the initial elbow, I could see that a flow damper valve was installed in the heating duct. Further inspection showed that all the heating ducts in the home had a flow damper installed near the registers. The damper in the dining room was the only one that was closed most of the way. The homeowner was not aware that flow dampers were a part of the homes heating system.

Heating Duct Damper

Flow dampers are a bit unusual in my neck-of-the-woods, I don't see them very often. Flow dampers are added to a heating system to allow manual adjustment of the flow of air to the registers. With dampers, the flow of conditioned air can be balanced so warm and cool areas of the home can be eliminated. To keep from putting increased pressure on the furnace fan motor, when one damper is closed down another damper should be opened up.

Sometimes, I believe a heating contractor may throw in a bunch of flow dampers when he looses his pencil and can't be sure of how big to make the heating ducts or how many registers need to be in a room.

6 Ways to Boost the Heat in a Cold Bedroom.

Repair Heating Duct:
There is always the possibility that the duct system has a problem that can be fixed. Ducts can become partially or totally disconnected and flexible ducts can become pinched off or collapsed. This is the first and most important fix considering the cold bedroom. This fix will not only warm the bedroom, but also increase energy efficiency and energy savings.

The first step is the inspection of the duct leading from the plenum to the register to be sure it is securely connected. Also, look for holes, crimping, or collapsed areas. Heating ducts damaged by animals is also a possibility that you should be looking for.

Disconnected heating ducts can be reconnected, but damaged heating ducts most often need to be replaced as they are difficult to repair.

Check for a Damper:
The sneaky heating contractor may have placed a damper in the heating duct and kept it a pretty good secret. Look and feel inside the duct by removing the register cover. Also, remove insulation from the outside of the duct, especially near the register and check for the telling signs of a damper. A metal rod with a small handle and a few anchor screws indicate a damper inside. Open the damper and your cool room problems maybe over.

Balance Room Pressure With a Cross Over Duct:
Now we need to talk about room pressure and balloons. Crack the bedroom door open about an inch, turn the furnace on and see if the pressure builds up in the room and closes the door.

The heating system is a circle of air. Air is heated in the furnace, pushed through the heating ducts into a room and then sucked by the same furnace, out of the room, back through the return air duct to the furnace. If the air in the room cannot get back to the furnace, the room builds air pressure, like a balloon, which restricts the flow of conditioned air into the room in the first place.

With an increase of pressure in the bedroom, the conditioned air is forced through a different duct and into an adjoining room.

To fix the potential problem, many homes have cross over ducts installed in the ceiling or over the door that allow the air in the room to get back into the hallway even when the door is closed. In some larger, higher priced homes, they may have eliminated the room pressure problem by installing a return air register in every room.

To balance the room pressure and stop this problem, the two most used repairs are installing a cross over duct through the wall over the door or simply cutting the bottom of the door off so there is a wider gap between the door and the carpet.

Increase the Size of the Duct:
Maybe the Heating Contractor ran out of 8 inch ducting so he decided 6 inch was close enough. There is a real possibility that the back bedroom is cool because the heating duct system was not engineered correctly. When this happens, the best fix is to correct the mistake and replace the duct with a larger one. If the home is fairly new and the Contractor is still around, you might get this done as a freebee.

In this way, the cool room will get a larger share of the air coming from the furnace. This repair can still be a do-it-yourself'er if your willing. Heating duct material, both ridged and flex, can be purchased at your favorite home store. Some zip ties, a few sheet metal screws, a sharp knife and a pair of tin snips should do the trick.

If the heating duct size is simply too small to service the room, besides replacing the duct with a larger one, the only other fix that might work is installing a booster fan in the duct or adding a complete second duct and register.

Duct Booster Fan
Place a baffle in the heating plenum:
This adjustment can be very effective - especially in a manufactured home. A section of the main heating trunk ( the plenum ) needs to be opened up so a metal baffle or shield can be placed in the main trunk line that will direct more air into the heating duct that goes to the cold room. This is a very effective way to grab more of the conditioned air that passes down the main heating trunk and direct it in the direction you want it go. This is an inexpensive and permanent fix that works very well.

Install a Booster Fan in the Duct:
This $30 part won't create more heat, but it will pull more heat to the cool room. The booster fan should be installed as close to the offending room as possible and can be wired directly back to the furnace fan so the booster fan will run each time the furnace comes on. Installing it can be a pain. A section of round metal duct either needs to be dropped down or added to the system. Be sure the duct system is air sealed or this added fan will pull unconditioned air into the system and lower your energy efficiency.

I know dealing with a cold spot in your home can be a frustrating ordeal. Hopefully I have provided some solutions to the problem that will work for you and your home. The home heating system was designed to provide the comfort you are expecting and deserve and, with a little T.L.C., will provide years of energy efficient service.

If you live in the South Bay Area of California and you are dealing with cold spots in your house- please visit Sandium.Com to schedule a visit with one of our technicians. 

by Don Ames, a home energy auditor that is your host at http://www.detectenergy.com and the publisher of the eNewsletter, the Energy Spy Insider.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_Ames

Choosing The Right Home Heating Solution To Meet Your Family Needs

By Mike S Williams

As the climate starts to cool down we all start to be aware of the coldness and consider purchasing warmer attire and heating our home to stay comfortable and healthy. You'll note I mentioned the word "healthy," because reduced home heating can adversely have an effect on a person's physical condition, particularly if he or she already has a respiratory health condition.

Children and the elderly are often more at risk when a simple chill develops into a more dangerous health condition. For that reason alone, effective house heating is essential. It not only keeps us warm and comfortable, it can also help to keep us healthy.

There are several types of house heating systems to choose from, and not every system will match every home. The kind of heating you select will depend on the needs of your family. Any assessment will need to take into account several factors.

• How much you are ready to spend on installation
• The age of your house
• Your home dimensions
• How many rooms you want to warm
• Whether your home is adequately insulated (after all, it might be sensible to start by remedying heat loss via walls, doors, windows and floors to begin with).
• How long you want the heating to operate for (will you have it turned on all day, or would you just turn it on when you arrive home?)
• Do you want instantaneous heat?
• Will you be looking for all-night heating or just at certain times?
• How environmentally friendly do you want your heating to be?
• How cost-effective does it need to be?
• How easy should the heating system be to operate and maintain (do you want to chop logs?)
• How safe do you want it to be (do you have children at home?)

Yes, there are countless things to contemplate when deciding on the best home heating system for your family. Now let's look at some of the numerous options available.

First of all, if you have an older home with a fireplace you may want to get the smokestack swept and burn coal or logs to be warm. Open fires are nice to sit in front of, but they have disadvantages also. They necessitate regular cleaning and somebody will have to chop the wood, or transfer the coal inside. Are you happy using fossil fuels, or would you want something more environmentally friendly?

Some folk install modern heating systems to wedge neatly into the space occupied by an old fireplace. It is worthwhile noting that some heating systems give off fumes, smoke, and/or dry out the air. I can still think of the kerosene vapors from the heater my Mum used when I was a child.

Is under floor heating worthwhile considering?

Under floor heating is now more popular particularly with those constructing or renovating homes. The setup requires a boiler to heat hot water which can then be circulated to radiators, baseboard units, or to radiant heating tubes placed underneath the floor.

Under floor heating warms rooms from the ground up and is generally very efficient to operate. Under floor heating is also hidden and won't take up any space. The systems are generally better operated at a low consistent heat, rather than switching them on and off to produce bursts of heat.

Are other systems worthwhile considering?

Some home owners choose gas fires, or electric plug-in heaters, but they can be costly to operate and are not essentially the most economical way to heat your home. Portable heaters can be very hazardous if they tip over or come in contact with furniture, furnishings, curtains, or garments. Accidents do happen.

Central heating is one more possibility. You really need to decide how many rooms you want to heat and if you want a consistent heat in each room.

What do you need to do before purchasing a home heating system?

First of all, don't simply rush out and purchase a new radiator for your home, as is might prove to really uneconomical and inadequate. Nevertheless, if you are just renting a home or apartment, then a portable electric fire might be a short-term heating solution.

Find out about the numerous heating options and the benefits and disadvantages of each system. You'll then be well-informed to make a good decision on the most appropriate system for your circumstances.

You'll want to debate the preliminary installation price tag with the ongoing expenses of running each system. You will want to look at the efficiency of each heat system in terms of heating output and heating loss.

House heating is not cheap, and purchasing the cheapest may prove to be a false economy. Some systems cost you more upfront, but end up being cheaper in the long-term.

I personally like a home that is warmed equally rather than all the heat being focused in just a solitary room or on one wall. Under floor heating systems can be more pricey (but not always), but they distribute the heat equally throughout a home from the floor up. That's why I personally fancy water underfloor heating.

After doing your exploration you'll then be well-versed enough to contact some established heating specialists to chat about options and prices. Knowledge is power, so you'll be able to ask the right questions and select the right heating solution for your home.

To set up a visit with a professional to determine the best heating solution for you and your family please visit Sandium.Com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_S_William
s

Energy-Efficient HVAC Solutions For Your Home - Heating and Cooling Green

By Matt Gallo

In today's environmentally conscious world, everyone wants to do their part for a more sustainable future. But it's hard to know what you can do to limit your impact on the planet. One of the easiest and most eco-friendly choices is to install an energy-efficient heating and cooling system in your home for dramatically reduced energy usage. And, as if that wasn't enough, the lower energy consumption of these heating systems will also help you save big bucks on your bills! In fact, some Energy Star rated HVAC systems can save you up to 30% on heating and cooling.

Solar Heating Systems

Solar heating systems are a great hot water heating solution that's eco-friendly and has extremely low operating costs. These systems can provide up to 80% of your home's hot water for major energy cost savings. Used to heat hot water, pools, and water for radiant heating, solar heating systems harness the free energy of the sun. And, although solar hot water heating can be expensive to install, it usually pays for itself in less than five years (in reduced energy bills and government incentives). Once the equipment is paid off, you have almost zero operating costs.

Hybrid Heat Pumps

Hybrid heat pumps are efficient combinations of gas furnaces and traditional heat pumps; blending two energy-efficient systems allows this hybrid to get the best of both worlds! Heat pumps function quite efficiently during warm months, but at cold temperatures they typically lose their effectiveness. Hybrid heat pumps work like a hybrid vehicle, turning on the gas furnace when necessary to supplement the efficiency of the heat pump. Switching between the two heat (and cooling) sources allows the system to automatically adjust for optimal function.

Ground Source Heat Pumps (Geothermal Heating and Cooling)

Ground source heat pumps are among the most efficient heating and cooling options on the market today. They're eco-friendly as well as inexpensive. This specialized type of heat pump utilizes the relatively constant temperature of ground to heat your home in winter and cool it in summer. A loop of piping is installed in the ground near or under your house, and liquid (antifreeze or water) flowing through the loop heats or cools your home depending on the season. In summer, the soil is relatively cool, so it chills the liquid, which in turn cools your home; in winter, the soil is warmer, heating the liquid. Ground source heat pumps are a completely safe method of heating and cooling your home with a renewable alternative to fossil fuels. They can even reduce your home heating costs by up to 70%!

Radiant Floor Heating

Radiant heating is another environmentally-friendly heating solution that has gained popularity in recent years. Radiant heat functions by circulating heated water through pex tubing in your flooring. This warms the floor and radiates heat throughout your space as the warmth from the flooring rises. Because the tubing must be installed under the flooring, radiant floor heating is recommended for new construction or during major remodels. However, despite the expense and hassle of installation, many homeowners love the energy-efficiency and great tactile experience of radiant heating. Just imagine walking across a toasty-warm floor instead of icy cold tile! Radiant heat can be used as a whole house heating system or installed in individual rooms (commonly kitchens and bathrooms).

Consult your local HVAC contractor to learn more about these different energy-efficient options for heating and cooling your home. They'll be able to give you expert advice about your specific area and help you select the best HVAC system for your needs. If you're ready to switch to green heating, new energy-efficient systems are the answer you've been seeking!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matt_Gallo

Energy and HVAC Optimization

By Patrick Propst

Let's talk about 30-40% of your electricity bill. That's how much it costs the average homeowner or commercial building owner to provide proper heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning (HVAC). A good HVAC system is the key to maintaining a comfortable, healthy and interior environment. Through the years, I have been asked by many owners for a strategy to reduce their cost of energy and HVAC. They don't want to sacrifice the interior environmental conditions, but they do want a point-by-point plan to follow. The interesting thing that often happens is that energy bills are lowered substantially and the HVAC system performance is improved. This is a standard function of any mechanical engineer specializing in energy and HVAC.

The information on this page will help homeowners, building owners and building operators make informed decisions about existing HVAC systems or future upgrades.

• Load Reduction
• HVAC Systems
• Control Systems
• Operation and Maintenance

Load Reduction

The first step to achieve energy and HVAC system optimization is load reduction. This step normally consists of a long range plan which itemizes the actions to be taken based on best return on investment. Reducing your building load allows the existing HVAC system to operate more efficiently. If a new system or systems are being considered, it will be more cost effective to design for the reduced load as opposed to the existing load. A few common load reduction strategies include:

• Tighten the building shell and add additional insulation. Adding insulation in existing buildings may not be achievable in some instances, so more consideration should be aimed at the exterior shell, especially windows and doors.
• Installing energy-efficient windows. This is a big item on some buildings that still have single pane windows. The installation of double pane windows with a thermal break is a great return on investment. Make sure they are ENERGY STAR qualified windows. Tinting or Low-E coatings will even be better.
• Upgrading lighting systems. The average commercial building has a lighting density of 2-3 watts per square foot which maintains proper lighting levels. This is a significant part of the HVAC load and almost any efforts in this direction will lower the cooling requirement for the building. Accent lighting (sometimes called architectural lighting) are not always energy efficient and should not be considered if you want to reduce energy and HVAC costs. Energy-efficient lighting systems emit less heat into conditioned space than older incandescent technology. If you have a return air plenum instead of return air ductwork, consider light troffers so that some of the heat from the lights is returned to the HVAC system instead of going into the occupied area.
• Selecting efficient equipment and electronic devices that have a power saver option will reduce the sensible heat gain in the space. Items to consider include copy machines, kitchen equipment, computers and refrigerators.
• Control ventilation by having your outside air balanced. Most building owners have drawings of the original HVAC system installation. Have the drawings reviewed by a mechanical engineer to confirm your outside air flow rates conform to the latest code requirements. If no drawings are available, your mechanical engineer should still be able to make recommendations for improvement.

Addressing these items is your first step to reducing energy and HVAC costs.

HVAC Systems

The second step to achieve energy and HVAC system optimization is knowing your system. Your HVAC system is critical to your interior environment, but it also represents a large component of your utility expenses. While it is beyond the scope of this article to discuss every system, a few recommendations can be addressed. Every HVAC system component has increased in efficiency over the years. If your system is more than 13 years old, it's time to begin planning for an upgrade to new equipment. Well maintained residential systems have a life expectancy of about 15 years or so but seem to fail at the worse times. Have a replacement plan ready for the day your equipment fails.

Commercial systems vary, but if your building is using packaged equipment or split systems, the same lifetime can be expected. For larger commercial systems and industrial applications, the HVAC system may be more complex and require an individual analysis by a mechanical engineer. As I said, HVAC systems vary and no one-size-fits-all analysis works for larger systems. What all these systems have in common is they are normally fueled by electricity. Electricity cost money, so any efforts in the direction of increased efficiency is a plus.

HVAC System Tips:

• Find a qualified consultant you trust. If you are a home owner or small commercial building owner, find a good HVAC company or mechanic to evaluate and maintain your system. If you are a large commercial building owner, find a commercial HVAC company for normal maintenance and a good mechanical engineer for specific guidance. I do not recommend using a mechanical engineer employed by the HVAC Company; find a third party engineer for unbiased information.
• Verify your HVAC system load. Home owners should use ACCA's Manual J calculation method and all others should have a load conducted by a mechanical engineer. Commercial buildings have more requirements related to code conformance, minimum ventilation rates, etc and are individual to each building.
• Load reduction-Read the information above.
• Select equipment sized for your load. NEVER OVERSIZE! More-is-better does not apply for HVAC systems. It will cost more to purchase the equipment as well as operate it. Get the load and the equipment selection right the first time.
• Purchase high efficiency or Energy Star equipment. Many of the new systems include variable speed drives for fans and compressors. Over the years of ownership this will be paid back many times over. Compare standard efficiency equipment to high efficiency equipment in terms of initial cost and life cycle costs. Any good HVAC company or mechanical engineer can obtain this information.
• Consider some form of energy recovery for any air exhausted from the building and use it to condition the incoming fresh air. This is air you have paid to condition, so extracting some of the energy before exhausting it should be a priority.
• For large commercial buildings, consider conditioning the outside air with a dedicated outside air unit. This will eliminate any problems related to humidity control in most instances. It will also increase occupant comfort and allow for further downsizing of equipment.
• Commercial buildings should consider economizers on their equipment. Most current codes require economizers on equipment over 15 tons in size. Often available at a low incremental cost, these units draw in fresh air from the outside when the temperature (sometimes humidity) outside is lower than the temperature inside.
• Home owners and small commercial building owners should install programmable thermostats. Commercial building owners should install a Direct Digital Control (DDC) system. The investment in either of these will pay back more than the cost in a small amount of time. Read more below.

Control Systems

The third step to achieve energy and HVAC system optimization is controlling your system.

• Programmable Thermostats-The age of digital controls has made saving energy easy. One of the best investments for the homeowner or small commercial building owner is a programmable thermostat. These are simple to use and incorporate strategies based on time scheduling. Most manufacturers offer 7 day programs and setback/setup programs which will turn the HVAC system on and off to compliment your schedule and desired indoor temperature. This is a great way to ensure HVAC systems are used only when necessary.
• DDC Systems-For the large commercial building, I consider this as a must have system. Installation costs have steadily decreased and the performance reliability has steadily increased. They can be integrated into any system and expanded as required. Some of the more popular features of these systems are optimized start/stop of the HVAC system, multiple zone control, multiple temperature sensor locations and ventilation control. The best part of these systems is their ability to be scaled up to the largest of commercial applications. This means you can install a simple system and add more controls later to incorporate your whole HVAC system. Again, the payback is short and well worth the investment.

Operation and Maintenance

The fourth and last step to achieve energy and HVAC system optimization is operation and maintenance. The most efficient HVAC systems are well maintained. Ensure reliability, efficiency and a long life for your HVAC system by following these tips.

• Find a qualified consultant you trust. If you are a home owner or small commercial building owner, find a good HVAC company or mechanic to evaluate and maintain your system. If you are a large commercial building owner, find a commercial HVAC company for normal maintenance. Make sure you record and document all servicing with dates, times and names of the servicing person.
• Home owners should always get a seasonal tune up. The operation of your system will vary with the seasons of the year.
• Replace your air filters regularly. Don't use anything less then a MERV 5 filter to assure dust and fibers are removed. Clean filters will save fan energy.
• Coil Cleaning-This is always a big item overlooked by residential and commercial building owners. Condenser coils collect dirt and debris on their surfaces because they are outside. This makes the compressor work harder and results in a higher refrigerant temperature in your refrigeration system. Evaporator and heating coils collect dust and fibers that circulate inside your home or building. Clean them at least once a year

Summary

Energy and HVAC optimization will reduce your electricity costs. A little time getting to know your system and familiarizing yourself with improvement strategies will save money and increase the life of your equipment.

Visit Sandium.Com for more information.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Patrick_Propst

Visit my site for more information on Energy and HVAC optimization.

I am a professional engineer with over 30 years of design experience relating to plumbing and mechanical systems. The articles I write are the result of many successful commercial and residential installations.

Heat Pumps

By Alison Cole

A heat pump is an electric cooling and heating system used to compress and decompress gas to heat or cool a house. This mechanical device pumps heat from a cooler to a warmer location and can extract heat from air, water or the earth. Heat pumps functions like an air conditioner in the summer and an electric furnace in the winter, thus encompassing both a heating and cooling unit in one device. The COP, or coefficient of performance, which calculates the ratio of heat output to electric power consumption, measures the performance of a heat pump.

Heat pumps are the most resourceful form of electric heating in moderate climates, and cool a house by collecting the heat inside the house and effectively pumping it outside. There are three types of heat pumps that one can install: air-to-air, water source and ground source. Heat pumps can collect heat from air, water or ground and can utilize the same to heat or cool your home. When installing a heat pump at home, one should consider using an energy-efficient heat pump system, keeping in mind the climate of the region.

For instance, air source heat pumps are a good option for mild and moderate climate regions, and ground source or geothermal heat pumps are efficient in climates with similar heating and cooling loads. The most common types of heat pumps are the air-source and ground-source heat pumps. Although ground source heat pumps are more expensive to install, they are more efficient and less noisy.

However, to make heat pumps work efficiently, they should be installed properly, and one should choose the right sized pump that can fulfill the heating and cooling demands of the house. While selecting a heat pump one should buy a device with a higher Heating Seasonal Performance Factor, or HSPF. The pumps should also be fitted with demand-defrost control, which minimizes the defrost cycles and reduces supplementary and heat pump energy use.

Heat pumps are much more cost-effective then other conventional heating devices, and are also becoming more commonly used to heat swimming pools, and hot water for household use.

To learn more about heat pumps please visit Sandium.Com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alison_Cole

Hot Tips on Radiant-Heated Floors

By Mimi Bullock

You're remodeling the bathroom and have dreams of adding some spa like comforts. A garden tub with pulsating jets, luxurious tile and comfortable fixtures come to mind. And maybe even a heated floor. Lots of people are considering radiant-heated floors because of that extra level of spa-like comfort. Before you make a decision about a heated floor, you should know some of the pros and cons of these types of heating systems. Here's a brief run down on the main types of systems and the pros and cons for using this type of heating system. Of course, your local HVAC professional will have more detailed information.

Heating Floor Systems: Which to Choose?

There are two main types of radiant-heated floors. The first is electric, which provides heat through electrically heated coils. The second is hydronic, which provides heat through water-filled tubes. The tubes can be heated in a variety of ways using solar power, oil, gas or kerosene. Not sure which to choose? Ask your local HVAC professional for their advice.

The Upside of Electric Radiant-Heated Floors

If you are adding heated floors to the bathrooms or to the whole house, there are some definite positives to radiant-heated flooring. The first of course is comfort. There is nothing like waking up on a cold morning and putting your feet on warm hardwood floors. Radiant-heated floors also take up no extra space. Because this type of flooring is installed underneath the floors, it is completely out of sight except for the thermostat. Usage cost is a pro as well. Users of radiant-heated flooring report about a 15 percent to 30 percent increase in their heating bills, depending on the size flooring they have installed. Contact your local HVAC professional to get a more localized estimate. Durability is also a great factor with radiant heated floors. Protected by two solid layers, these systems were designed to last. And on the plus side, the installation time is fairly short. Allergy sufferers benefit from these systems too! They provide cozy warmth without blowing around a lot of dust.

The Downside of Electric Radiant-Heated Floors

There are a few down sides to adding an electric heated floor. One is the heated floor system can't be retrofitted under your existing floors. Your local HVAC specialist will have to take up the old floor, install the heated system and replace the flooring. Look to spend about $15 to $20 per square foot. Also, you may need new wiring from the main electric circuit panel in order to adequately power your heating system. And lastly, radiant flooring doesn't heat up as quickly as a space heater. You may have to wait for an hour before your floors are warm.

The Upside of Hydronic Radiant-Heated Floors

You'll find the same positives as you did with the electric system in addition to some fuel-cost savings. Whether you go with solar or oil, these electric alternatives will save you money. Ask your HVAC specialist which system he recommends and why.

The Downside of a Hydronic Heated Floor

Add the same cons as the electric counterpart plus one more. While electric systems are durable, with a hydronic heated floor, you have the chance of experiencing water damage. With a significant leak there could be damage to your floors, your furniture and your home. Contact your local HVAC professional for his suggestions on radiant-heated floors.

You're remodeling the bathroom and have dreams of adding some spa like comforts. A garden tub with pulsating jets, luxurious tile and comfortable fixtures come to mind. And maybe even a heated floor. Lots of people are considering radiant-heated floors because of that extra level of spa-like comfort. Before you make a decision about a heated floor, you should know some of the pros and cons of these types of heating systems. Here's a brief run down on the main types of systems and the pros and cons for using this type of heating system. Of course, your local HVAC professional will have more detailed information.

Heating Floor Systems: Which to Choose?

There are two main types of radiant-heated floors. The first is electric, which provides heat through electrically heated coils. The second is hydronic, which provides heat through water-filled tubes. The tubes can be heated in a variety of ways using solar power, oil, gas or kerosene. Not sure which to choose? Ask your local HVAC professional for their advice.

The Upside of Electric Radiant-Heated Floors

If you are adding heated floors to the bathrooms or to the whole house, there are some definite positives to radiant-heated flooring. The first of course is comfort. There is nothing like waking up on a cold morning and putting your feet on warm hardwood floors. Radiant-heated floors also take up no extra space. Because this type of flooring is installed underneath the floors, it is completely out of sight except for the thermostat. Usage cost is a pro as well. Users of radiant-heated flooring report about a 15 percent to 30 percent increase in their heating bills, depending on the size flooring they have installed. Contact your local HVAC professional to get a more localized estimate. Durability is also a great factor with radiant heated floors. Protected by two solid layers, these systems were designed to last. And on the plus side, the installation time is fairly short. Allergy sufferers benefit from these systems too! They provide cozy warmth without blowing around a lot of dust.

The Downside of Electric Radiant-Heated Floors

There are a few down sides to adding an electric heated floor. One is the heated floor system can't be retrofitted under your existing floors. Your local HVAC specialist will have to take up the old floor, install the heated system and replace the flooring. Look to spend about $15 to $20 per square foot. Also, you may need new wiring from the main electric circuit panel in order to adequately power your heating system. And lastly, radiant flooring doesn't heat up as quickly as a space heater. You may have to wait for an hour before your floors are warm.

The Upside of Hydronic Radiant-Heated Floors

You'll find the same positives as you did with the electric system in addition to some fuel-cost savings. Whether you go with solar or oil, these electric alternatives will save you money. Ask your HVAC specialist which system he recommends and why.

The Downside of a Hydronic Heated Floor

Add the same cons as the electric counterpart plus one more. While electric systems are durable, with a hydronic heated floor, you have the chance of experiencing water damage. With a significant leak there could be damage to your floors, your furniture and your home. Contact your local HVAC professional for his suggestions on radiant-heated floors.

You're remodeling the bathroom and have dreams of adding some spa like comforts. A garden tub with pulsating jets, luxurious tile and comfortable fixtures come to mind. And maybe even a heated floor. Lots of people are considering radiant-heated floors because of that extra level of spa-like comfort. Before you make a decision about a heated floor, you should know some of the pros and cons of these types of heating systems. Here's a brief run down on the main types of systems and the pros and cons for using this type of heating system. Of course, your local HVAC professional will have more detailed information.

Heating Floor Systems: Which to Choose?

There are two main types of radiant-heated floors. The first is electric, which provides heat through electrically heated coils. The second is hydronic, which provides heat through water-filled tubes. The tubes can be heated in a variety of ways using solar power, oil, gas or kerosene. Not sure which to choose? Ask your local HVAC professional for their advice.

The Upside of Electric Radiant-Heated Floors

If you are adding heated floors to the bathrooms or to the whole house, there are some definite positives to radiant-heated flooring. The first of course is comfort. There is nothing like waking up on a cold morning and putting your feet on warm hardwood floors. Radiant-heated floors also take up no extra space. Because this type of flooring is installed underneath the floors, it is completely out of sight except for the thermostat. Usage cost is a pro as well. Users of radiant-heated flooring report about a 15 percent to 30 percent increase in their heating bills, depending on the size flooring they have installed. Contact your local HVAC professional to get a more localized estimate. Durability is also a great factor with radiant heated floors. Protected by two solid layers, these systems were designed to last. And on the plus side, the installation time is fairly short. Allergy sufferers benefit from these systems too! They provide cozy warmth without blowing around a lot of dust.

The Downside of Electric Radiant-Heated Floors

There are a few down sides to adding an electric heated floor. One is the heated floor system can't be retrofitted under your existing floors. Your local HVAC specialist will have to take up the old floor, install the heated system and replace the flooring. Look to spend about $15 to $20 per square foot. Also, you may need new wiring from the main electric circuit panel in order to adequately power your heating system. And lastly, radiant flooring doesn't heat up as quickly as a space heater. You may have to wait for an hour before your floors are warm.

The Upside of Hydronic Radiant-Heated Floors

You'll find the same positives as you did with the electric system in addition to some fuel-cost savings. Whether you go with solar or oil, these electric alternatives will save you money. Ask your HVAC specialist which system he recommends and why.

The Downside of a Hydronic Heated Floor

Add the same cons as the electric counterpart plus one more. While electric systems are durable, with a hydronic heated floor, you have the chance of experiencing water damage. With a significant leak there could be damage to your floors, your furniture and your home. Contact your local HVAC professional for his suggestions on radiant-heated floors.

Mimi Bullock is a copywriter for Yodle Local, a business directory [http://local.yodle.com] an online advertising company. 

For more information on Radiant -Heated Floors please visit Sandium.Com

Article Source: ezine articles

Energy 101: Geothermal Heat Pumps

To learn more about Geothermal Heat Pumps please visit Sandium.Com

How to Save on Your Home Heating Costs

Contact Sandium.Com to have a professional come out and service your furnace and make sure you are ready for the winter weather.

Grading the Installation Quality of Insulation

How to tell the difference between perfectly installed insulation and a lousy insulation job

POSTED ON AUG 27 2012 BY ALLISON A. BAILES III, PHD, GBA ADVISOR

Six years ago, RESNET published a major revision of the HERS Standards, officially named the 2006 Mortgage Industry National Home Energy Rating Systems Standards. One important new feature in the standards was the grading of insulation installation quality. Before this change, R-13 insulation installed poorly (as shown in the second photo, below) was equivalent to any other R-13 insulation, including insulation with impeccable installation quality (as shown at the top of this article).

If you know any HERS raters, you've probably heard the debates about the various types of insulation and the poor quality of installation they sometimes see. (OK, you're right; it's more than just an occasional sighting.) In fact, the Green Curmudgeon's suggestion that maybe we ought to consider banning batt insulation has generateda discussion that won't die.

So, how exactly does this system of grading the installation quality of insulation work? Raters have been doing it for six years now, so it's time for the rest of you to find out what they're doing. First, a brief overview:

A home energy rating includes energy modeling to see how energy efficient a home is or will be. Most HERS ratings have been done for new homes that are seeking to qualify for a program's label or certification, such as the ENERGY STAR new homes program. The rater gathers all the information about the building envelope, the heating and cooling systems, ventilation, water heating, lights, and appliances. The data go into the energy rating software, which does the calculations and comes up with estimated annual consumption and costs as well as a number called the HERS Index.

The three grades: I, II, and III

The R-value of the insulation in all the insulated building assemblies (walls, ceilings, floors) can have a big effect on the results. Now that raters put a grade on the installation quality, it helps the rater develop a more accurate energy model of the home. When a rater goes in and looks at the insulation, they've got to record each assembly as having a Grade I, Grade II, or Grade III insulation installation quality.

Note: This protocol applies to all types of cavity insulation, not just fiberglass batts. Spray foam, cellulose, and mineral wool can all be installed with gaps, compression, and incompletely filled areas, and they can all be installed well.

Grade I is the best. This means that the insulation is installed according to the manufacturer's instructions. It completely fills the cavity in the case of air-permeable insulation and also is encapsulated on six sides (with an exception for IECC climate zones 1-3). It's cut around electrical junction boxes, split around wires and pipes, and generally not compressed.

Grade II is second best. There's some allowance for imperfections in the installation but overall, it's still not too bad. The HERS Standards say a Grade II installation can have "moderate to frequent installation defects: gaps around wiring, electrical outlets, plumbing and other intrusions; rounded edges or “shoulders”; or incomplete fill..."

Grade III is the lowest grade. It has "substantial gaps and voids."

The energy rating software models these three grades differently. When the rater enters Grade I, the software calculates according 100% of the cavity insulation having the R-value entered. When the rater enters Grade II, the software models the cavities as having 98% of their area insulated to the given R-value and 2% uninsulated. For Grade III, 95% of the cavity area is calculated with the given R-value and 5% is treated as uninsulated. (The reason for these particular numbers should become clear to you below.)

The two criteria for assigning the grade

When the HERS rater is inspecting the insulation installation quality, they look at two criteria:

• Missing insulation
• Compression and incompletely filled areas

Missing insulation. When a cavity in a building assembly has insulation installed in a way that leaves gaps, that affects the amount of heat that flows across the building envelope. More heat will pass through assemblies that have gaps. (If you want to see just how much a little bit of missing insulation can hurt performance, check out this calculation for a ceiling with an uninsulated attic hatch.) The more gaps there are, the worse the grade it gets. Here's how the HERS Standards relate missing insulation to grade:

• Grade I: "Occasional very small gaps are acceptable." In another place, the Standards say, "if the exterior sheathing is visible from the building interior through gaps in the cavity insulation material, it is not considered a 'Grade I' installation." 
• Grade II: Up to 2% missing insulation
• Grade III: Between 2% and 5% missing insulation

If you're wondering what happens when you do an inspection and find that more than 5% of an assembly is missing insulation, the answer is that you have to break out the uninsulated part and model it separately. If it's new construction, you'll probably be telling the builder to finish insulating, but in existing homes, sometimes you have to model the uninsulated part.

The illustration below (image #3), taken from the HERS Standards (Appendix A, pages A-11 to A-16), shows visually what the rater should be looking for.

Compression and incomplete fill. Compression is a common problem with fiberglass batt insulation because the batts are often not cut to the proper size for the cavity.

• Grade I: Up to 2% of the area can have compression or incomplete fill. If a spot is incompletely filled, it must be depleted no more than 30% to attain Grade I. In other words, no more than 20 square feet of each 1000 square feet can have this problem, and even those 20 square feet must be filled to at least 70% of their intended depth.
• Grade II: Up to 10% of the area can have compression or incomplete fill and again must be filled to at least 70% of their intended insulation depth.
• Grade III: Unspecified. I take this to mean that any compression or incomplete fill that lies outside the bounds specified for Grade I or Grade II would garner that assembly a Grade III.

The illustration below (image #4), again taken from the HERS Standards, shows what these conditions would look like.

Making the grade

Most of the time, assigning a grade to an insulation installation isn't really so hard. Sometimes, you look at it and see immediately that it's Grade I. Other times, it's immediatley obvious that it's Grade III. The difficulty comes in when you're on the boundary between I and II or between II and III. That's when you might need to dig a little deeper and get out your measuring tape. If you want to learn more about this, download a copy of the HERS Standards (link below) and read pages A-11 through A-16 in Appendix A. If you're a home builder or insulation contractor working with HERS raters, it's important to know exactly what they're looking for.

Putting a grade on the installation of insulation and doing inspections before drywall goes into new homes were two of the biggest changes that RESNET and ENERGY STAR introduced six years ago. New homes that have gone through this process have gotten a lot better as a result.

Do you live in the South Bay Area of California and want to learn more about insulation? Please visit Sandium.Com

Download the HERS Standards: 2006 National Mortgage Industry Home Energy Rating System Standards (pdf)

Allison Bailes of Decatur, Georgia, is a RESNET-accredited energy consultant, trainer, and the author of the Energy Vanguard blog.

Article Courtesy of: Green Building Advisor